Surfing Wrightsville Beach is one of my favorite things to do! This week was a great example of why. On Tuesday it was really small so I took the longboard out and caught a few waves surfing with a great friend of mine, Allen. We surfed and laughed and enjoyed the beautiful 80 degree day. Afterward I had a surf lesson with Alexandre, a child with autism who surfs with me for therapy year round. We had some great rides together. All in all it was a fantastic day of waves, friends and sunshine.
I took Wednesday to volunteer in my son’s kindergarten class, but was back on Thursday for one of the most enjoyable days of surf I can remember. The ocean surface was perfect glass. Nice A-Frame peaks were coming in up and down the beach and peeling in both directions for hundreds of yards in either direction. I couldn’t understand why no one was out but I enjoyed nearly 3 hours of surf all alone on this beautiful 80 degree day in flawless conditions. Small but perfect.
Friday I went back to Wrightsville Beach Access #10, the wind was up so the surface was a little choppy, but the waves had bumped up a few feet in size and were looking ripple. It was a good workout paddling in and out with the choppy sea surface but the wave faces were fantastic and long, walled up, racy rides were served up over and over. Again to my surprise, there wasn’t anyone around. Overnight the wind turned offshore and by Saturday morning we had almost perfect surf for Saturday. The crowds were bigger but there were still plenty of glassy lined up waves to go around. I surfed until my arms nearly fell off before heading home.
Today, Sunday, I got the chance to surf with my daughter Gabriella. Together we had an absolute blast. We had a cold wind, choppier conditions, and really small waves, but the day was beautiful. Although the conditions were much worse than earlier in the week, to be out surfing with Gabby, the day couldn’t have been better. Gabby, star of the documentary Bound By Sea, surfed great. For her age she is an awesome surfer and seems so confident in all types of ocean conditions. She has become a fantastic surf instructor and has helped in nearly all of our surf camps in Wrightsville Beach, Topsail Island and Oak Island. She has helped with all of our charity surf camps in the Cape Fear Region and has become so compassionate toward children who have special needs. She has become a special part of our surf school here in NC. She has also become a competitive surfer competing in the Wrightsville Beach Wahine Classic for several years. Bound By Sea explores our charity work and Gabby’s involvement in our surf programs. It explores our travels and the special relationship we share. bound By Sea makes its World Premier on Saturday November 16th at Thalian Main Stage for the Cucalorus Film Festival 10 am to noon. I can’t wait to see what people think of Nate Daniels movie.